Koza in Jing'an offers Xinjiang-inspired cocktails (RMB118-128) like Pepper Chicken Gin Fizz and Milk Tea in an edible bowl. Bar bites from RMB15, open daily 7pm-2am. Cozy rug decor.
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By Heather Millet
The Place
The next great adventure from Xinjiang bartender Ata Kudvs has arrived on Jing'an's Xikang Lu.
Ata Kudvs, the mastermind behind Koza
Formerly of The O Bar, where he crafted cocktails that took inspiration from across China, this time the focus is on his native region.
READ MORE: The O Bar – A Cocktail Journey Across China
Koza is the Uyghur word for lamb
Named Koza, the Uyghur word for lamb, the space has a warm, modest feel—like stepping into a home in the nation’s far northwestern reaches—with both the floor and walls covered in rugs.
A soft lamb—or koza—skin
A chandelier drips from the ceiling
The curtains are lace and hung with crystalline beads
Upstairs, the second floor feels like a space to read... or nap. In fact, the whole bar is ideal for curling up with a cocktail and some warming bar bites.
As with the story of O, Kudvs was once again headhunted by a duo of customers—this time, two patrons who also come from Xinjiang.
Mia Zhang, loyal follower of Ata Kudvs' cocktails, and co-founder of Koza
Mia Zhang and Cassie Cai had spent many nights drinking with Kudvs at his two previous workplaces, asking him to experiment with fruits and other ingredients.
Eventually, the three agreed they had built enough mutual confidence to go into business together. While Kudvs will remain involved in creating the menu at The O Bar, he is now full-time at Koza.
50-year-old rug, sent from Xinjiang by Kudvs' mother
When asked about the décor, Mia explains that the largest rug—hung by the door—was sent from Xinjiang by Kudvs' mother.
"This rug is over 50 years old. Kudvs' parents got it when they were first married. He grew up learning to crawl and walk on this rug. So she sent it to him for good luck."
She then pulls back some coats obscuring one corner from view, revealing a torn segment. "We think it was him who tore the rug here!"
The Drinks
Menu made to look like a Xinjiang nang flatbread
With a menu designed to look like a lush purse in the shape of a nang flatbread—a well-known Xinjiang staple—one side is labeled 'Liquid Xinjiang Cuisine,' and offers three savory cocktails.
Pepper Chicken Gin Fizz (RMB118): Vodka, Gin, Pepper Chicken Stock, Lemon, Sugar
The Pepper Chicken Gin Fizz (RMB118) uses real chicken stock, made in-house when crafting the dish that inspired it.
The stock is brightened with gin, vodka, and lemon, then enriched by the aroma of a fresh onion slice as garnish.
One might expect it to be heavy or too directly like soup, but it is surprisingly refreshing with a savory hit.
Xinjiang Kebab (RMB128): Brandy, Whisky, Onion, Vermouth, Bitters, Rayhan, Beef Salami, Cinnamon
The Xinjiang Kebab (RMB128) arrives garnished with three colors of pepper coins, skewered like its namesake.
The cocktail uses brandy, whisky, onion, Xinjiang rayhan, and beef salami as key flavor elements.
In this case, Kudvs decided to twist the beverage toward a Fireball flare by including cinnamon.
It tastes like late, wild nights.
Ata Kudvs pours up a true taste of Xinjiang—a specialty spirit called Rayhan
When we ask about the rayhan, we are met with enthusiasm. Produced from black grapes, this unique Xinjiang style of vermouth is purchased from the source, as it is nigh on impossible to find locally.
The flavor is rich and earthy—worth asking to buy a taster on its own.
Xinjiang Spicy Girl (RMB118): Rum, Agave, Xinjiang Dry Tomato, Strawberry, Chocolate, Bitters, Xinjiang Pepper
From the flip side of the menu, the Xinjiang Spicy Girl (RMB118) uses strawberry, Xinjiang pepper, rum, and Xinjiang tomato to create a lightly fruity cocktail with a gentle bite.
Speaking of bite, Kudvs has also crafted a cocktail served in an edible cup...
Fresh Milk Tea (RMB128): Rum, Whisky, Lemon, Bitters, Salt, Rose Tea, Milk Skin, Pastry Glass
The Fresh Milk Tea (RMB128) is a low-ABV cocktail made with rose tea, whisky, and rum, served with a hint of salt inside a dense cake bowl.
It comes with a spoonful of Xinjiang-origin milk skin that acts like a chewy cream to enhance the drink.
Once the liquid is gone, the bowl is usually soft enough to bite into.
Milk Granule Cake (RMB128): Yili Milk Granule, Lemon, Sea Salt, Brandy, Rum, Cream, Vanilla
The Milk Granule Cake (RMB128) is a Ramos Fizz that incorporates brandy and rum rather than gin.
Kudvs shaving Yili milk candy over a Ramos Fizz–style cocktail
In a classic Kudvs touch, he incorporates an ingredient from his hometown—grating a snowfall of Yili milk candy over the top.
Bespoke Bitter Gourd Cocktail (RMB118)
Just as co-founders Mia Zhang and Cassie Cai used to love bringing fruits and other ingredients to Kudvs for cocktail experimentation, guests at Koza can also request bespoke creations.
Curious about the bitter gourd sitting on the countertop, we ask Kudvs to get imaginative—and are met with a surprisingly light, summery drink we would easily order again.
The Food
The Koza snack menu features a range of Northwestern delights, from quick bar bites to fuller meal-sized options and desserts.
Fried Beef (RMB78)
The Fried Beef (RMB78) is like jerky but soft enough to bite through, with a real spice kick and loads of cumin.
You'll also be begging for extra of those tasty, tasty pickles. So good news...
Homemade Crispy Pickles (RMB48)
The Homemade Crispy Pickles (RMB48) use peppers, baby lotus root, celery, and other vegetables—and these also have an edge.
These should really be available to buy by the jar, for us pickle nerds. And there are also whispers that the next menu launch will use the brine for a cocktail or two.
Pepper Chicken (RMB88)
As a full meal item, the Pepper Chicken (RMB88) is loaded with meat, tofu skins, tofu squares, and vegetables—all with a home-cooked flavor.
A dish that could help you survive a night of boozing... or cure a hangover.
Koza Small Cake (RMB15)
Among the few dessert options is a very reasonably priced layered Koza Small Cake (RMB15), which is not too sweet.
The Vibe
With everything to watch, look at, and explore, Koza is a perfect bar to stop into with friends, have a small upstairs party, or bring a date to.
There is no pretension at Koza. It's fun and delicious—a bar that feels as easy as the smiles of its co-founders.
Daily, 7pm–2am
Phone / WeChat: +86 131 6200 8896
Koza, 356-2 Xikang Lu, by Kangding Lu, Jing'an District 西康路356-2号, 近康定路
[All images by Graeme Kennedy]
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