Summary: New Shanghai bar Sodam, a collaboration between Seoul's Antidote and Guangzhou's Lotus Lounge owners, crafts creative cocktails using rice-based spirits like soju and baijiu, bridging Korean and Chinese traditions in a relaxed, cave-like setting.
By Heather Millet
For millennia, through shifting borders and dynasties, Korea and China have stood as neighboring civilizations, each endowed with expansive historical and culinary depth.
In modern times, their major cities of Seoul and Shanghai have been recognized as homes to some of the world's most creative bars.
And there is always room for one more.
Entrance to Sodam
The heart of Seoul is meeting the heart of Shanghai in a new collaboration, 十石 Sodam, on Huangpu's Shaoxing Lu.
The bar was founded by Tong Li, an owner of Lotus Lounge in Guangzhou...
Tong Li, mixing behind the bar at Sodam
... and Joseph Lee, co-founder of Antidote in Seoul.
Joseph Lee, co-founder of Antidote Seoul and now Sodam in Shanghai. Photo courtesy of Sodam
Lee's bar in South Korea, Antidote, is designed to have an apothecary-like feel, focused on cocktails as a medicinal medium.
Li's Lotus Lounge in Guangzhou, meanwhile, is a theatrical exploration of beverages based on the cuisine of Chinese minorities.
In short, their bar backgrounds were very different.
Interior of Sodam
What they shared were firm track records in bar ownership, which laid a foundation for trust that grew quickly as they took steps toward opening their new bar.
Both Lee and Li knew they wanted to represent their respective nations in a unified way, and the solution soon became clear: rice.
Rice quart bucket. Image Courtesy of Sodam
The bar's name, 十石 (Shídàn in Chinese or 'Sodam' in Korean), refers to a historical unit for measuring rice in both cultures.
十石 literally means 'ten dàn,' where 石 (dàn) was a unit of dry volume used for grain.
"When you think of Asian culture, you cannot take out rice," Lee explains. "It drives the energy to create society. Before there was currency or paper money there were rice and grains."
Buddha Hand cocktail from above
The Drinks
In keeping with its ethos, all cocktails at Sodam contain a rice element, be that Korean soju, Chinese baijiu or huangjiu wine, Japanese sake, or a distillate or flavor from rice.
What they build on this is experimental, sometimes whimsical, and most importantly, delicious.
All cocktails are priced at RMB98, and named for their starring flavor.
Basil: Sake, Gin, Basil, Super-Lemon
Li recommends starting with the Basil, a gentle twist on a cocktail from Antidote using sake, gin, basil and lemon.
Encountering challenges ordering the correct varieties of basil to blanch before use, the team has been flexible, enjoying the shifting flavor of this fresh and easy cocktail.
Buddha Hand: Sake, Gin, Bergamot, Elderflower, Rooibos Tea, Jasmine Cheese Foam
A natural follow-up to this is the Buddha Hand, which combines soju, gin, bergamot, elderflower, and rooibos tea, topped in a jasmine cheese foam.
Li's current favorite on the menu, no sugar syrup is used in the cocktail; the fluffy foam balances the slight bitterness below.
Bell Pepper: Soju, Tequila, Bell Pepper, Chilli, Olive, Grapefruit Soda
On the savory options side is the Bell Pepper which blends soju with tequila, bell pepper, and olive.
A Yunnan chili spice rim and three-olive garnish makes for an ideal vegetal drink.
Rose: Baijiu, Bourbon, Rose, Osmanthus Rice Wine, Tonic
For a cocktail with bourbon and real baijiu (as opposed to baijiu formulated for cocktails), the Rose comes across as dangerously delicate.
Like the bar, it is suspiciously relaxed.
Rice: Soju, Toasted Rice, Cream
Another Li favorite, and in exact alignment to the bar's premise, is the Rice.
It is reminiscent of horchata without cinnamon—creamy and light at the same time—and became a fast favorite of those passing through Sodam across its early cocktail testing weeks.
Yellow Wine Manhattan: Yellow Wine, Bourbon, Dry Vermouth, PX Sherry, Bitters. Photo by Heather Millet / That's
For some excitement and showmanship, Sodam serves their Yellow Wine Manhattan with a pine cone set aflame in a shot glass...
... adding aroma to the beautifully strong cocktail.
Red Bean: Sticky Rice Spirit, Gin, Red Bean, White Cacao, Clarified Yogurt
The Red Bean is a sweet dessert crafted to authentic Cantonese taste by Li, who hails from Southern China.
It preserves the true, textured essence of red bean and yogurt, despite the clarification process.
Mango Sticky Rice Martini: Sake, Gin, Mango, Sticky Rice, Verjuice
Taking a sojourn from Chinese and Korean shores, Sodam makes a play with Thailand's most famous dessert—the Mango Sticky Rice Martini retains the tasty elements of its namesake sweet, while staying classically strong through sake and gin.
The Vibe
Hidden rear seating space at Sodam
Stepping into Sodam is like stepping into a cave, but one filled with relaxed laughter and warm energy.
While a bar with so much expertise could be stiff or arrogant, the team at Sodam comes from a place of humility and gratitude.
With only three weeks to help set up the space, they were also incredibly hands-on with renovation.
"Opening was delayed a week due to construction issues, and then when finally it was ready, the cleaners we hired didn't show up. So we cleaned the bar ourselves," laughs Lee.
"This lamp shade actually didn't arrive on time either, so Li just made this cover out of wax and paper!"
Makeshift lampshade, crafted by co-founder Tong Li
The best way to describe Sodam, its owners and mixologists, is "chill." There's even a staff member's new puppy snoozing underfoot on a smiley-face blankie when you first walk in.
Let sleeping dogs lie—a pooch owned by a staff member rests on her blanket.
That said, by 9pm Sodam is flooded with people.
This is a bar where you can enjoy inspired cocktails, chat with the owners, and feel a connection across borders.
It's been a laidback adventure between trusting strangers from the start, but you leave the night feeling like part of a community.
Busy night at Sodam
Mon–Sat: 7pm–Late
Sun: Closed
十石 Sodam 25 Shaoxing Lu, Lane 2, 1/F, Huangpu District 黄浦区瑞金二路 绍兴路 25弄二号一楼
[All photos by Zhijue / That's unless otherwise stated]
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