Oyama-san, in his own words
By Ned Kelly
For long-time Shanghai foodies, the name Sushi Oyama needs no introduction. It evokes memories of intimate, counter-seat experiences in the villa at 20 Donghu Lu, where the menu was dictated by the day's freshest catch.
Well, it's back!
Newly-opened in Xintiandi Galleria, we sat down with eponymous chef-owner, Takeo Oyama, for whom omakase is not a profession but a lifelong passion, to find out why connection with the diner is just as important as the cut of the fish.
Takeo Oyama chef-owner of Sushi Oyama
On beginning his journey...
I am from Hiroshima Prefecture, Japan. Then I went to Abeno Tsuji in Osaka—that's where you learn the real fundamentals.
That set me on my path, 28 years now, just trying to perfect the craft.
On the first trip to Shanghai...
I first came to Shanghai in 2004, just as a tourist. I fell in love with the city.
On the Oyama way...
My specialty is nigiri sushi, but the omakase—meaning is Chef's choice—is a conversation. I consider your preferences, your allergies.
I aim for flavors that are delicious, memorable, and have an element of surprise.
The menu? It's decided by what is freshest that day.
On the atmosphere...
The interior is an eight-seat counter, one private room. It's dark, bar-like, relaxed.
I prepare everything right in front of you. It's an engagement. You watch, we talk, you enjoy the interaction.
On a customer's first time...
In an international city like Shanghai, we get guests from all over. For some, sitting at a sushi counter for the first time can be nerve-wracking.
I believe every encounter is a meaningful connection. Ask me anything. Let's share a drink.
The taste is important, but what matters most is that you have a delightful experience.
On changing times...
The world I started in nearly three decades ago was different. Now, with social media, you can find a recipe from a Tokyo restaurant in seconds.
It's easy to imitate. But the true mission of a sushi chef is to meet you in person, decide the menu for that day, and personally guide you on how to enjoy it.
On what has stayed the same...
Fundamentally, not much has changed. In fact, I feel more people are now seeking authentic flavors.
Personally, I believe the dishes I find most delicious are those rooted in traditional, classic cuisine.
However, simply explaining 'authenticity' can be challenging. Learning about a country's food culture before understanding its cuisine is, I believe, timelessly important.
On the journey to ownership...
I spent seven years after graduation helping open restaurants overseas and then as a head chef in Tokyo.
I worked for a company, but the desire to start my own business grew stronger. So I established my company and returned to the city I love: Shanghai.
Just like 17 years ago, the restaurant is named Sushi Oyama.
On the menu...
We offer an omakase course with sashimi, sushi, tempura, and steamed dishes. We preserve the classics, but we also incorporate French and Chinese elements. We add creative twists.
Aging tuna nigiri with wasabi soy sauce. Sautéed foie gras with yuzu and ikura. It's about breaking old norms to pave the way for innovation.
There's an old saying: 温故知新—learn from the past to create the future.
On staying inspired...
I make a point to visit the trendy restaurants that younger generations enjoy. I need to learn, to stay inspired.
Every customer has different preferences. I feel fortunate to be able to do what I love. My motto is: Cooking is passion.
On mentorship...
I consider myself truly lucky. Meeting mentors I respect shaped who I am today. Life is about connections.
Not just in cooking, but in any profession, work is challenging and never easy.
On the true meaning of training...
The true meaning of sushi training is, above all, self-discipline. It's like cleaning—polishing not just skills but also the heart. It's about learning patience.
You might learn the basic form of sushi in a specialized school in two months, but it took me 12 years to truly feel like I had started.
And during my 10 years in Shanghai from 2008 to 2018, my family, my staff, fellow chefs, friends, and customers… they all helped shape who I am today.
Now, it's my turn to give back to everyone.
A sushi chef is a lifelong learner. Sushi Oyama is my life.
Lunch 12pm-2pm; RMB800 per person
Dinner: 6-8.15pm & 8.30-10.30pm; RMB1,280 per person
Reservations: 180 1756 3295
E-L361, 3/F, Xintiandi Galleria, 29 Ji'an Lu 吉安路29号3层E-L361
[All images courtesy of Sushi Oyama]
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