Paul Pairet flagship full of flair and fun
By Mike Norton
Perched on the Bund's golden stretch of real estate, Chef Paul Pairet 's flagship remains one of those rare places that feels both grand and genuinely fun.
The Mr & Mrs Bund dining room
Mr & Mrs Bund: Grand and genuinely fun
The Mr & Mrs Bund deck
The view from Mr & Mrs Bund
It's French at heart, but laced with Pairet's unmistakable wit—clever riffs on flavor and presentation that never feel forced.
Perhaps known mainly as a venue for celebratory dinners, Mr & Mrs Bund has evolved with the times.
At Mr & Mrs Bund, even bread is an event
Their weekday lunch menu feels like a smart, modern rethink—a curated tasting of greatest hits from the extensive à la carte, with around half the dishes rotating seasonally.
At a fraction of the dinner price, it's arguably one of the best quality-to-price experiences in Shanghai dining right now.
We started with the Persillé House Ham, a deceptively simple dish that instantly set the tone.
A terrine with chunks of ham laced with parsley and herbs arrives beside a bright mustard gel and a creamy ravigote sauce, consisting of an aïoli base, along with capers, eggs, onions, and herbs.
There's a whiff of pastis hiding in there too—just enough to lift the flavors without shouting. Earthy, tangy, and comforting.
It's rustic French comfort, reimagined with a touch of theater.
The Mackerel "Like a Herring" is one of those dishes that remind you why Pairet's reputation for precision is well-earned.
The cured mackerel carries just the right intensity; Sichuan pepper, and a ten-spice mix give it subtle depth without overwhelming the fish.
It's matched with a warm potato salad speckled with mustard seeds, the acidity in the salad brings lift, the spice, intrigue.
It's France meets Sichuan—and the marriage works.
Then, the Tartelette Pissaladière Niçoise arrives looking like a jewel box.
It's a classic from the French Riviera—caramelized onions, anchovy, and olives on pastry—but here, it's reimagined as something altogether more refined.
The tart is topped with quail eggs and a whisper of raw garlic, the sweetness of the onion playing off the salt of the anchovy and the tang of goat's cheese.
A touch of basil and streak of Romesco sauce—with a base of onion, anchovy puree, and garlic—brings brightness.
There's a lot going on, but somehow, it all works in harmony—the flavors layered, proportioned, and balanced to perfection.
Like eating a painter's palette rendered in pastry.
The Carving Trolley – Roast of the Day is where Mr & Mrs Bund leans fully into the old-school glamour.
A gleaming rib of Harvey Reserve, Australian Angus MS 3 prime beef is wheeled to the table and carved with practiced precision—a spectacle that never fails to draw a few glances from neighboring diners.
The meat, dried, and salted for 24 hours before an overnight slow roast, is tender, richly marbled, and glazed with teriyaki.
Accompanied by a wholegrain mustard that warrants an entire article to itself (we'll spare you that), rich with beef jus, chervil, tarragon, maybe some magic.
It speaks of the attention to detail that sets Mr & Mrs Bund apart. A balsamic reduction is spooned over the meat.
Time to tuck in.
If the beef is the headline act, the Le Beau Chicken Vol-Au-Vent quietly steals the spotlight.
The pastry stands tall and golden, puffed to near absurdity, before your server deftly fills it tableside with chicken, truffle, mushrooms, and foie gras.
The timing is the trick—the filling hits the plate while the pastry stays perfectly crisp. A subtle cheese note runs through the crust, grounding the indulgence.
It's French decadence, yes, but with that unmistakable Pairet wink.
Then came the humorously named Very Rich Man's Breakfast, a tongue-in-cheek take on steak and eggs.
Here, a perfectly cooked bavette steak comes with thick-cut fries and a glossy Béarnaise sauce swirled with tarragon oil.
A poached egg sits atop, ready to burst and enrich everything with its golden yolk.
It's as decadent as it sounds—half brunch, half brasserie, 100% delicious.
Desserts at Mr & Mrs Bund have always been more than an afterthought, and the trio we tried reaffirmed that reputation.
The Raspberry – Raspberry Chantilly is a study in contrasts—a sharp whole raspberries and red fruit sorbet paired with a sweet, soft vanilla chantilly speckled with vanilla bean.
The balance between tart and sweet is spot-on, cleansing after the richness of lunch.
Une Île Flottante is Pairet's whimsical take on the French classic—convention turned on its head.
Instead of the usual floating meringue, the island forms a soft, pillowy bowl cradling crème anglaise within it.
Topped with a caramel disc and perfumed with citrus sugar, it's delicate—almost dreamlike—and unlike any version we've had before.
Finally, the French Toast, which is closer to a dessert soufflé than a breakfast dish.
Made from brioche caramelized with sugar until crisp at the edges, it's light as air and paired with a subtle banana ice cream that whispers rather than shouts its flavor.
A gentle, graceful end to a fine meal.
Drinks are refreshingly affordable: Curated wines by the glass from RMB70; Cocktails at RMB60; and mocktails at RMB50.
Add RMB50 more and you get unlimited bottled water and coffee—an easy yes if you plan to linger.
So, is Mr & Mrs Bund still worth the hype after all these years? Absolutely.
The lunch menu distills everything great about the restaurant: bold flavors, confident technique, and that rare mix of polish and personality.
In a city that loves to chase the next big thing, it's refreshing to see an old favorite not just keeping up, but leading the pack.
Weekday Lunch Express
Mon–Fri, 11.30am–2.30pm
2 courses RMB280 per person
3 courses RMB350 per person
Opening Hours
Lunch: Daily, 11.30am–2.30pm
Dinner: Daily, 5.30pm–10pm
Reservations
+86 21 6323 9898
Mr & Mrs Bund 6/F, Bund 18, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Nanjing Dong Lu, Huangpu District 中山东一路18号6楼, 近南京东路
[All images by That's]
No comments:
Post a Comment