Summary: O'Mills expands into a bistro centered on a rare applewood oven. It transforms organic farm produce into fire-kissed dishes like innovative pizzas, roast chicken, and its signature sourdough, blending craft with bold flavors in an intimate setting.
By Mike Norton
O'Mills has long been one of those reassuring constants on Shanghai's bakery circuit: reliable, deeply aromatic sourdough, and a sense that they take their bread seriously.
With Firewood Alchemy, newly opened in the old Luneurs space on Huashan Lu, the brand stretches beyond its bakery roots, reworking the concept into a full-fledged bistro built around an applewood-fuelled firewood oven.
Distinguished as only the second of its kind in Asia—the first being in Japan—the oven was meticulously crafted by French artisans and assembled on-site piece by piece from refractory bricks and metal bolts.
A dedicated, temperature-controlled fermentation room, specifically for crafting and storing natural ferments such as kombucha and pickles, further supports the store's ethos.
Image courtesy of O'Mills
By maintaining precise environmental stability, the room guarantees the flavor and quality consistency essential to these products.
Image courtesy of O'Mills
The concept hinges on provenance and process. Much of the produce comes from O'Mills' own organic farms in Zhejiang and Xinjiang, and the kitchen's job is transformation.
Alchemy, in practice. Turning pristine ingredients into thoughtful, fire-kissed dishes.
The Food
Bread still anchors the experience. The foundation of O'Mills is its traditional sourdough, made from organic stone-ground flour and house-cultivated wild yeast.
The dough is mixed and fermented in wooden boxes, then slowly cold-fermented for 72 hours, a live culture that is incorporated into all of its daily dishes.
Image courtesy of O'Mills
At Firewood Alchemy, it is then baked in the wood-fired oven, imbuing the bread with a perfectly balanced, smoky essence.
Image courtesy of O'Mills
The sourdough lineup includes...
Original Wild Yeast Sourdough Loaf (RMB39)
...the tangy Original Wild Yeast (RMB39), a rich Double Cheese (RMB49)...
Xinjiang Black Wheat Sourdough Loaf (RMB30). Image courtesy of O'Mills
... and a bold Xinjiang Black Wheat (RMB30) loaf.
Olive Focaccia (RMB20)
There are also Olive (RMB20) and Sun-dried Tomato (RMB19) focaccias, both made with the sort of care and attention you'd expect from O'Mills...
Sun-dried Tomato Focaccia (RMB19)
... bronzed and dimpled, crisp at the edges, pillowy in the middle, and lightly scented with olive oil.
Familiar, yes—but all excellent.
Steak Tartare (RMB88)
The à la carte menu is where Firewood Alchemy truly finds its voice. Steak Tartare (RMB88) arrives piled generously onto toasted Xinjiang black wheat bread, the beef lightly touched by smoke, topped with creamy avocado and shards of crispy taro for contrast.
Wood-Fired Mackerel with Green Pepper Pizza (RMB148)
The wood-fired oven turns out pizzas that sidestep tradition entirely. A standout is the Wood-Fired Mackerel with Green Pepper Pizza (RMB148): butterflied mackerel laid over Hunan-style smashed green chilis and century egg.
It sounds daring—and it is—but the balance works. Salty, smoky, spicy, and rich, it's a dish that could justify the visit on its own.
Alchemy Roast Chicken (RMB158)
From the grill, the Alchemy Roast Chicken (RMB158) is quietly excellent: perfectly seasoned, skin lightly crisped, meat still juicy beneath, finished with a deeply reduced jus that delivers pure savory satisfaction.
Eye Fillet Steak Salad (RMB118)
An Eye Fillet Steak Salad (RMB118) swaps raw leaves for sautéed bok choy and bamboo shoots, turning winter vegetables into something deliciously vibrant.
The steak, seared over open flame, is spot on.
Potato, Forest Mushroom and Oxtail Ragu (RMB98)
Potato, Forest Mushroom and Oxtail Ragu (RMB98) leans into comfort: potato cubes with an almost gnocchi-like texture, braised oxtail collapsing into itself, mushrooms bringing the bass notes.
It's quietly indulgent, thoughtfully composed, and the kind of plate that disappears quickly.
Xinjiang Rice with Coral Trout (RMB398/598)
The Xinjiang Rice with Coral Trout (RMB398/598) arrives as a small performance—ingredients shown first, whisked away to the kitchen, then returned as a claypot dish...
Perfectly cooked pearlescent rice, crisp-skinned trout, salmon roe, and salty, house-pickled kombu binding the whole thing together.
Desserts keep things interesting...
Xinjiang Chili Black Wheat Cake (RMB22)
... a Xinjiang Chili Black Wheat Cake (RMB22) offers a gentle heat beneath its sweetness...
Xinjiang Mulberry Pound Cake (RMB39)
... while a moist Xinjiang Mulberry Pou nd Cake (RMB39) provides a softer landing.
The Vibe
By day, Firewood Alchemy works as an easygoing lunch spot.
Image courtesy of O'Mills
Image courtesy of O'Mills
Image courtesy of O'Mills
Come evening, the lights dim, the room softens, and it settles into something more intimate: a cozy bistro with serious culinary intent.
With Firewood Alchemy, O'Mills hasn't just expanded, it's evolved. This is a restaurant built on craft, confidence, and clever flavor combinations.
A reminder that playing with fire isn't always a bad idea.
Price: RMB100–400 per person
Who's Going: Sourdough enthusiasts, organic and farm-to-table followers, fire-oven cuisine fans, adventurous pizza lovers
Good For: Casual lunches, intimate dinners, unique ingredient-focused dining, showcasing innovative cooking techniques
Reservations*: 189 6475 0895
Daily, 7.30am-4.30pm, 5.30pm-10pm
O'Mills Firewood Alchemy 888 Huashan Lu, by Wukang Lu, Xuhui District 华山路888号, 近武康路
*Reservations are only accepted during dinner hours
[All images by That's, unless otherwise stated]
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