X marks the spot… to feast!
By Heather Millet
Billowing sails loft overhead as the bright flavors of day turn purple with evening's crescendo.
Night air rushes forth amongst laughter, discussion, overflowing beverages, and raucous feasting.
Wooden floors creak beneath the stomping feet of patrons, haste of servers, and speed of bar-folk.
Cheers erupt—smashing cups made of glass, ceramic, metal and wood—while music pumps slowly louder and the senses gleefully dull.
Welcome to the world of Madame Ching.
Image of Famous Female Pirate, Madame Ching
As the last of the imperial dynasties was reaching its dusk, the dawn of a rule of piracy began.
During the 19th century, the Qing Dynasty shared a stage with one Zheng Yi, the leader of a pirate confederation, and his wife, a former prostitute, Ching Shih.
When Zheng Yi met an early demise, Ching Shih—most famously known as Madame Ching—took command of what became a fleet of 600 ships with over 40,000 men.
She was known as "The Scourge of the South China Sea," and is hailed as one of the most feared and successful pirates in all of history.
Detail of the 'sails,' with the symbol of Madame Ching. Photo Courtesy of Madame Ching
But there was more to Madame Ching than bloodthirsty plundering or the rule of an iron fist (or steel cutlass).
She was not merely the captain of a powerful force, but rather a cunning businesswoman and, arguably, a compassionate commander, tying together a region through unlikely means.
We can imagine she passed her time planning, delegating, distributing funds, controlling passage of the Southern ports, and—of course—eating and drinking.
Interior of Madame Ching
Manifesting the memory of this legendary female pirate is a new Shanghai restaurant: Madame Ching.
True to its eponymous heroine, the restaurant has already traveled around Asia—with pop-ups in Hong Kong, Malaysia, and Thailand.
It is now docked permanently in Shanghai, on a large mooring on Yanping Lu.
Madame Ching Streetview on Yanping Lu. Photo Courtesy of Madame Ching
Founded by the mysterious Chef Dali (That's Shanghai Chef of the Year 2023), Madame Ching is much like its namesake inspiration, in that there is more to the establishment than a simple bar and restaurant.
Swinging Door Entry to the pirate world of Madame Ching. Photo courtesy of Madame Ching
Entry to Madame Ching's is through a large, swinging glass door, granting passage into a contemporary piece of her history.
Bar of Madame Ching, known as 'The Treasury'
Ship's sails drape from the ceilings and artifacts of the Qing Dynasty are hidden around the walls.
Bar hooks for bags, made of ceramic spoons. Photo courtesy of Madame Ching
Bar seating follows a path of ropes and ceramic spoon hooks, leading to the back wall decorated in discarded bits of Jingdezhen pottery.
READ MORE: 48 Hours in... Jingdezhen – China's Porcelain Capital
Image of Mazu, Goddess of the Sea. Photo Courtesy of Madame Ching
The broken pottery forms an image of Mazu, the revered goddess of the sea, protector of mariners, and considered a 'maternal ancestor' or 'heavenly empress.'
Many sailors would craft her likeness before they set sail, says Chef Dali, explaining that the establishment is sectioned, much like a ship, with the bar as the main treasury and every space holding various transitory functions.
The open kitchen and chef's table can transform into a DJ booth.
Chef Dali plating dessert in the space...
... which transforms to a DJ booth at night.
The music—which Chef Dali has coined 'Asiatic House,' a new sound that blends Asian instrumentals and vocals, with a bumping house base—was curated and mixed specifically for Madame Ching.
With a dedicated focus on this aspect, the (massive and red) speakers are by Void Acoustics from the UK to support the transition into late hours.
The lighting is also programmed to dim and change color as the hours drip by.
Colors of the night at Madame Ching. Photo Courtesy of Madame Ching
It is suggested to start the voyage of Madame Ching at The Treasury—their name for the bar space, where drinks are another glimpse into history and the overhead space is a visual feast of antiquities like Madame Ching might have collected on her travels.
Antiquities and broken pottery creations in The Treasury. Photo Courtesy of Madame Ching
The Drinks
The drinks menu has been crafted with oversight by one of the grand masters of cocktail culture in China, Jackie Ho.
Jackie Ho (left), a ship's captain of China's first generation of mixologists, with one of his third generation protégée, Jesse Lu (right), who will helm the Madame Ching bar
Now North Asia Brand Ambassador for 500-year old spirit Disaronno, Ho was once the first champion of the Belvedere Vodka Asia's Best Bartender competition, and went on to the World's Best Bartender competition in London, where he placed in the top five.
"If I don't make a good Godfather cocktail, no one in Asia can," he boasts, as he shares stories of the drink's creation and his own secrets to its perfection.
The Best Godfather (RMB88) by Jackie Ho
His drinks menu follows the geographical map of Madame Ching's exploration: the Chinese mainland, Macau, Taiwan, Hainan, Vietnam, and North Malaysia.
Ho is currently still experimenting with the final versions of these, with the help of third generation Chengdu bartender Jesse Lu, who will helm the bar when Ho departs in the coming weeks.
Welcome drinks of cranberry juice and oolong tea
A welcome drink of cranberry and oolong is presented in dainty tea cups.
Chinese Rouge (RMB98): Sun Moon Lake Black Tea, Dried Red-Fleshed Guava, Dried Mandarin, Gin
The Chinese Rouge (RMB98) is fully ready, arriving perched in a small basket, adorned in golden lotus seed and flower.
Detail of the Chinese Rouge cocktail
Made with dried red-fleshed guava, the essence of the fruit shines through.
Thang Long Symphony (RMB98): Disaronno Velvet, Sugarcane Juice, Coconut Water and Cream, Rum (optional), Pandan Foam
The Thang Long Symphony (RMB98) is a Vietnamese inspiration, available both alcoholic and 0 ABV.
The platter for this drink was hand-crafted by Ho, creating a beach scene of strewn seashells and painted turquoise waves.
The drink itself is light and creamy with coconut and pandan flavors.
Hainan Mango Tea (RMB98): Mango Puree, Pineapple, Crysanthemum Tea, Rum
In contrast to its vivid, orange soda-like appearance, the Hainan Mango Tea (RMB98) is not overly sweet, and offers a smooth tea richness.
Offerings such as a Peri-Peri cocktail haven't been fully revealed, though a small taste of the Chef Dali peri-peri-infused spirit begs us to return.
The Food
Chef Dali Plating. Photo courtesy of Madame Ching
Chef Dali describes his cuisine as "Cantonese Tapas." As with the drinks, the Set Menu (RMB350) is still in development, fluid and changing like the seas.
Edamame Hummus / Zaolu Pickle Sauce / Tempeh Crackers
The set begins with Edamame Hummus and Tempeh Crackers, a small delight and curious tone to begin the long meal ahead.
Hargow Shrimp / Katsu Sandwich / Pickled Cabbage
Second arrives the Hargow Shrimp Katsu Sandwich with pickled cabbage, served in a mini-steam stack emblazoned with the symbol of Madame Ching.
Chef Dali can also offer this as a vegetarian twist, to be decided upon impulse in the kitchen.
Braised Beef Chuck / Paccheri / Cantonese Curry / Parmesan Cheese
Braised Beef Chuck Paccheri Pasta is another fusion vision, mixing Cantonese curry and parmesan, leaving us craving a second helping.
Wok Fried Broccolini / Yuzu Vinegar / Nori Labneh Foam / XO Oil. Photo Courtesy of Madame Ching
In true modern spirit, the Wok-Fried Broccolini achieves a perfect charcoal crisp, balanced by yuzu vinegar and nori labneh foam.
It's a full tribute to this hybrid vegetable, bridging traditional and Chinese broccoli.
36-Hour Slow-Cooked Short Beef Rib / Charsiu Sauce / Daikon Potato Puree
Main dishes are divided into three choices: from land, sea, or air. For a pirate's feast, the land is a divine 36-Hour Slow-Cooked Short Beef Rib, sectioned off the bone with charsiu sauce, relaxed over a base of daikon mashed potato puree.
It is an absolutely massive portion, and succulent beyond expectation.
Roasted Cauliflower Satay / Kale / Shacha Sauce
Chef Dali also crafts vegetarian mains off the cuff, such as Cauliflower & Crispy Kale with shacha sauce, the Cantonese version of Satay.
Hong Kong Milk Tea Tea Crème Brûlée / Caramelised Peanut Crust
Finally, a dessert as rich as Madame Ching in her final days—and every bit as unique—a Hong Kong Milk Tea Crème Brûlée with a caramelized peanut crust.
The key to a fine crème brûlée is that the top be crispy enough to shatter, and this one breaks like the crack of a ship's cannon.
The Vibe
For piracy and a plethora of flavor, Madame Ching's is a hidden ship of treasure to be explored.
There is no mistaking the details and the daring, the cunning and the courage—all converging in a single vision to conquer both flavor and ambiance.
Representing one of the epic women of Asian history, this is one of the epic openings of the season.
Price: RMB200–600 per person
Who's Going: History buffs, design devotees, fusion adventurers, cocktail connoisseurs, nightlife navigators
Good For: Daring dates, legendary celebrations, late-night voyages, impressing out-of-towners, feasts fit for a pirate queen
Reservations: 175 2151 5528
Tue–Thu, 6pm–1am (last order 12.30am)
Fri–Sun, 6pm–2am (last order 1.30am)
1/F, 98 Yanping Road, Jing'an 静安区延平路98号1楼
[All photos by Maria Menand / That's unless otherwise stated; cover image by Heather Millet / That's]
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