A jewel in Jiangxi
By Michael Oh
Located in Jiangxi Province, Jingdezhen is world-renowned for its ceramic and porcelain industry. Your grandma's heirloom 'china' dish collection—that's probably from Jingdezhen.
Image by Michael Oh / That's
When we were researching Jingdezhen, we laughed at an overeager local on Reddit who said you need to spend a week there, but returned humbled—there's a lot more to do than we had expected, with tons of day trips in the surrounding area.
However, it does make a perfect two-night trip—maybe one night if you're a young and ambitious early-riser.
Image by Michael Oh / That's
We went expecting to see a lot of the blue-on-white dishware, but found that Jingdezhen's ceramic and porcelain scene goes far beyond what we imagined.
From mass-produced schlock to indie, avant-garde artisans, it is diverse. There are several museums and outdoor markets, visiting artist workshops, and gallery exhibits.
Image by Michael Oh / That's
Visiting with mild curiosity, we left entirely intrigued by it all. A few years ago, during the pandemic, the city became trendy as a place for big-city corporate kids to escape the rat race and try an artist's life.
We were repeatedly told by those in the trade (locals and transplants) that there was a bit of a gold rush in 2021 that has since died down, but it still felt vibrant to us.
Ancient Kilns Folk Customs Museum. Image via China Tours
We recommend starting the day at the Ancient Kilns Folk Customs Museum. Set in the middle of a lush garden park, the museum sprawls several buildings—many with active factories.
Here, you can watch the full process: how the pieces are handmade from clay and become finished porcelain—the old-school way.
A vase on sale for RMB289,000. Image by Michael Oh / That's
The food options near the museum are either basic (think cheap noodles) or—across the parking lot—there is a modern building with a posh dining spot doing molecular cooking...
Foie gras 'tomatoes' on foam? No thanks—head back into town for lunch.
Image by Michael Oh / That's
One of the highlights of Jingdezhen is the food. Jiangxi cuisine has a reputation for being salty and spicy, but basic.
However, we had five meals at fairly random nearby spots we found on Dianping, and all of them were excellent.
It's fascinating—over a few small mountains, the cuisine goes from bland, sweet Zhejiang food to excellent dishes that turn the salt and spice level up to 11.
Ceramic Art Avenue. Image by Michael Oh / That's
After lunch, head to the Ceramic Art Avenue, also known as Taoxichuan. The outdoor weekend market is strictly curated; artisans must apply for the limited space and are given only one month to host their booth.
In all, there are around 50 indie artists' booths, each with a different style, plus tons of restaurants, galleries, cafes, natural wine shops, and more permanent ceramic shops.
Taoxichuan's weekend market. Image via Xinhua Silk Road
It's a very nice commercial development, Ivy League college campus meets an arts district—good for spending the afternoon into the evening, ending with dinner.
The area feels like a combination of the best of Beijing's 798 and Shanghai's Xintiandi, but with less of the schlocky art or the crass, conspicuous commercialism.
Ads for workshops and shows. Image by Michael Oh / That's
There's a lot more than just ceramic art as well—we stumbled into a free modern dance workshop, and there were plenty of other workshops advertised. You can join in glass blowing, painting, or performance art.
The highlight of Jingdezhen is the Ceramic Industry Museum, a whimsical yet thoughtfully linear history of the ceramic industry that really breaks down the different styles over the centuries.
The Imperial Kiln Museum. Image via Chinese-Architects
After dinner, take a short Didi ride to Tao Yang Alley, where you'll find the Imperial Kiln Museum, a modern arched building that's Instagram famous, and an old city to walk around.
This museum is sparse and refined compared to the others in town and, open until 10pm, makes for a relaxed stroll after dinner.
The adjacent 'pedestrian old street' is currently under construction, but should open soon.
The Imperial Kiln Museum. Image via ICON
If we've painted too rosy a picture, be assured that Jingdezhen has some of the worst drivers we've experienced anywhere in China.
We had to tell drivers to go slower—or faster—on every ride. One of them just came to a complete stop in the middle lane on the freeway to check his phone… so, wear your seat belt (and maybe bring a blindfold).
Pro tip: There aren't many trains to Jingdezhen each day, so plan ahead because they often sell out.
Where to stay: We stayed at the Kaimenzi Grand Hotel for RMB211 a night. It's certainly a 'faded glory' business hotel, but it's across the road from the Ancient Kilns Museum, making it a convenient starting point. It's also a 10-minute walk to a lovely local restaurant, 老店·集萃楼(古窑店), set in an old house.
Where to drink: If you like cocktails then Carpe Diem is the spot for you—they serve all their signature drinks in local porcelain.
[Cover image via Wild Great Wall]
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