By Sophie Steiner
Buckle up baby, this summer is going to be a steamy ride. Maybe it's the endless plum rains or the record-breaking, undulating heat waves making people go cuckoo for Cocoa Puffs, but everyone who is anyone seems to opening a restaurant or bar this month.On the flip side, a few too many Shanghai institutions are shutting their doors for good.Some real high highs and low lows felt – a bona fide Shanghai F&B rollercoaster.Goodman, Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sLet's start with the good news, and some big openings, namely Goodman – Shanghai's first and solely smash burger dedicated venue by a powerhouse team of Yaya's (Andrew Moo, Dan Li, and Warren Pang) and Bastard (Jiro Hsu and Michael Janczewski).The crew celebrated their Grand Opening last Thursday to a crowd that spilled onto the street until the wee hours of the morning, even earning a visit from Shanghai's finest.(If the cops don't show up, is it even a party?)Coa, Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sAnother wavemaker of a (re)opening took place mid-month with the Temple to the Agave Gods, Coa Shanghai, reopening following their unexpected closure this past January.Opening night saw lines down the Fuxing Lu block just to snag a coveted seat (mezcal drink in one hand, taco in the other).We've heard it's remained just as busy every day this week; the (well-deserved) hype continues. Ex-Da Vittorio pastry chef Frederic Jaros and wife Xinxin Wu are opening two-story VERIE Bakehouse (standing for Very Effortless Refined Inspiring Everyday) in Xintiandi in early August.The bakery will serve up Michelin-level baked goods, featuring viennoiseries (French style 'bready' breakfast pastries) and birthday cakes on the first floor.But the real fun happens when you enter a hidden door behind the bakery that leads to the second floor – called Ting – for a pastry-inspired, reservation-only chef's table, set to launch in late September.Think a full 8-12 course set menu that spans savory to sweet, with each dish involving some pastry element included in innovative, whimsical ways. And the name Ting? It comes from chef Frederic Jaros's initials – FJ – that resemble the Chinese character 厅, one found in the words 餐厅, 展厅, 剧院厅 (restaurant, showroom, theater), as the chef's table dining experience will extend beyond the commonplace restaurant experience into an unlimited space of imagination. Fafu – the Korean BBQ late night favorite among many a Shanghai chef and bartender – is getting a younger (and rowdier) brother, Hanok, set to soft open in Shake's old spot on Maoming Lu this weekend. With seating for over 70, this seltzer bar (read: highballs made with Koreaxn spirits like soju and cheongju) will also offer Korean bar snacks by Fafu owner Jacob and team.The traditional Korean design aesthetic is juxtaposed against a 'bubble wall' backbar focal point – like a fish tank sans fish, plus a lot of flowing and glowing bubbles. Chef Gabo (previously of Anarkia Craft Kitchen, Joye&Sam, Diner) has revamped, relocated, and reopened his dream venue – 八 by 8 – (pronounced bā by eight) the culmination of his entire culinary career, on Jianguo Xi Lu. In true Gabo fashion (and like the previous 8 by Anarkia, located on the second floor above Wuyuan Lu's Diner), the focus is an eight-course tasting menu (there are two to choose between at RMB789 and RMB998, respectively), for eight total guests (available in two seatings per night at 6pm and 8pm).The space is outfitted in Qing Dynasty tapestries, crystal flowers, and traditional Chinese art, all with a slate gray backdrop. In the coming weeks, Chef Gabo will also launch bento boxes for lunch and omakase 'drunch' or 'drunk brunch' – a whole tray of eight brunch dishes plus a lot of booze, hence the name.Image courtesy of PromiseStockholm native chef Jim Löfdahl (who opened the first international Frantzén outpost, Franztén Kitchen in Hong Kong, followed by his own restaurant, the equally lauded Embla) made his first foray into the mainland this March with the opening of Promise, in the Donghu Lu Grand Mansion. Chef Sebastian Carl Johan, Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sHere, the kitchen of this New Nordic spot is helmed by chef and sommelier Sebastian Carl Johan, the previous Head Chef of Embla.Together, the duo is leaving a noteworthy Nordic footprint on the Shanghai dining scene – reaching beyond the plate to drinks, décor, service, and the entire holistic experience. The Set Menu (RMB1,788 + 10% service fee) will rotate seasonally – with the current summer menu focusing on the forest and sea.There are only eight spots a night for this chef's table style dining, so be sure to book in advance. The Loft Hotpot Bistro, Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sShanghai's hottest nightlife epicenter, INS, has welcomed new Cantonese hotpot bistro The Loft, backed by the same team as A, WAY – a fine spirited ice cream brand (or luxury booze ice cream, in layman's terms) with its flagship location also in INS. With six hotpot soup bases to choose from, plus a generous smattering of both hot and cold traditional Cantonese dishes, and hours that extend to 6am on weekends, it is the answer to all your pre- and post-clubbing needs. Image courtesy of Le BaronIn other clubbing news, Le Baron – one of Shanghai's most beloved dance clubs – made a huge comeback in May, reopening in new digs on Fumin Lu. First a little history: born in 2004, this legendary Paris nightclub first established outposts in London, New York and Tokyo, before opening its doors in the heart of Shanghai's former French Concession in 2014. After closing in June of 2021, co-founder Victor is excited to bring the fun times back yet again, creating the same destination for the city's most cultured and cosmopolitan clientele who come to dance and enjoy old school disco and hip-hop music while sipping on Champagne and cocktails. The space is a third of the size of the previous location (divided into a weekend-only dance floor and Tuesday-Sunday speakeasy bar), but boasts the same DNA in vibe, dance-worthy music program, and décor of wall mirrors, over 200 hanging disco balls, and red, red, red.And, as it continues to regain its acclaimed status, the team recently launched a new cocktail program by Chase White (Bar Blanc).Sliding down the block to iapm, BONBON is officially open, a new rooftop establishment that involves a collaboration between Shanghai Oude – the team behind J. Boroski, The Upper Room, Bijou, No Filter, and Most Izakaya – and Charbon, the casual grill-centric affair of esteemed three Michelin-starred chef Paul Pairet, of Ultraviolet fame.Expect a menu specifically designed for sunny summer afternoons into late night rooftop parties – aka creative yet crushable cocktails (for as low as RMB44 during daily happy hour), gourmet Charbon-esque snacks and sweet ice cream treats, and some of the city's top DJs, all against the backdrop of breathtaking Xuhui views.That same Shanghai Oude group also opened another new high-end venue, a modern Xinjiang concept called Hoxa in the Somekh Building – the same 1920s art deco heritage building as The Upper Room on Beijing Dong Lu. Guests can look forward to sprawling balconies for shisha and North African lounge décor, coupled with curated cocktails, contemporary Xinjiang cuisine, and Middle Eastern Soho House vibes. Jumping over to Columbia Circle, Pizza Hut opened an 'upscale' Napoli style pizza joint, aptly named Pizza Hut Pizzeria, last month.No surprise here, the menu sports mainly pizzas – fired in a Napoli style pizza oven – plus a few other mains, steaks, salads, sandwiches, and Italian desserts.Aiming to reposition themselves in Shanghai's trendy food scene as more than just fast food pizza, the ultimate result is… well… about as questionable as Columbia Circle ever becoming the next 'it' lifestyle hub. NABI, Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sSpeaking of lifestyle hubs, more and more is opening in the new lifestyle complex WYSH on Wuyi Lu in Changning these days, the same area where we visited some of Shanghai's hottest new South Korean fare by chef Tom Ryu at both NABI...Along with Lawry's Prime Rib, there's Glory Butter bakery, another outpost of Yunnanese restaurant Dai Shao Shao, Yugo Fusion Izakaya, and more slated to open in the coming weeks.Hanoi family-owned pho shop gone global, Pho VieThin saw its first China mainland outpost open last month, bringing a genuine taste of northern Vietnam to the pho-loving masses.Lighter and more aromatic than its southern pho counterpart, the soup here is heavier on the spring onions and lean beef, with a bowl going for just RMB58 a pop, ideal fare for this rain lately.In other pho news, Pho to Shop on Wuding Lu is now casual Moroccan restaurant Madina. From Moroccan tagines to flaky filo savory pies to Moroccan signature mint tea, the aim is to make Moroccan cuisine more mainstream in the Shanghai dining scene. The curious inclusion of mini burgers, a Reuben sandwich, a tuna salad sandwich, and shrimp paste chicken wings is less of a Moroccan tie-in and actually a smattering of favorites from the group's previous venue, Munchies (remember it?), but the traditional Moroccan pastries on offer have us still gearing up to go. Kebaba, Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sFrom Vietnam streetside stalls and Morrocan comfort food to French and German on-the-go snacks, Kebaba opened on Jinxian Lu in April with a streamlined menu of build-your-own chicken döner kebabs. Ideal for a moreishly messy lunch, snack, or late night eats, hungry patrons can choose their bread, fillings, sauce, and toppings – all for delivery or dine-in. Image courtesy of Burrito El PatronOnto Mexico, Burrito El Patron just opened on the fourth floor of the Golden Eagle International Shopping Center (across from Plaza 66), doling out – you guessed it – burritos... plus tacos, tortas, Mexican snacks, and owner Eugene's version of Taco Bell's Cheesy Gordita Crunch.Eugene studied in the USA before working at a Mexican restaurant in San Francisco, where his deep-rooted love for the cuisine was born.At Burrito El Patron, all tortillas are made in-house using a grind mill, starting from dry corn kernels and doing the entire nixtamalization process themselves.They also have flour, whole wheat and chili tortillas. 
Image courtesy of Spud RangerRussian-owned potato bar, Spud Ranger, is bringing all things potatoes to Jing'an with a lineup of stuffed baked potatoes, DIY style.Toppings hailing from the land of potatoes, vodka, and comradery span oil-soaked herring, Thuringian sausage, sauerkraut, beans, and much, much more, plus a side of oh-so-many varieties of vodka shots. Harley's Bar, Image by Tim ChambersHarley's Bar is back rocking after expanding into its next door space and undergoing a refurb. No change, thankfully, to their winning formula of well-priced food and drinks, live music, pool, darts, and shots! shots! shots!
Papito Pancake expanded its empire this month with another location on Huangpi Nan Lu, while Vermuthology opened a second spot at Primus Hotel. Onto closures, one that hit home hard was that of creative Cantonese cuisine Madame Ching x Yi Long on Donghu Lu, the outpost of the 2023 That's Shanghai Chef of the Year, Dali (Derek) Wong. Image courtesy of YuyintangPour one out for legendary live music venue (and possibly the oldest indie live music house in Shanghai) Yuyintang, who announced earlier this month that they will close this weekend.Small, intimate, and rough around the edges (in all the right ways), it was without doubt one of the best places to catch alternative culture in the city.Equally heartbreaking, Pride-friendly bar Roxie announced last week that they are being forced to close "due to forces beyond [their] control…" Fill in the blanks.Other sad news spread to chef Conrad Van Den Heever's firepit-roasted proteins bistro, La Brise 523, which shut down in Sinan Mansions earlier this month, as did Henkes in Reel Plaza.Image courtesy of Lounge by Top GolfTopgolf China is saying 'out with the old and in with the new' with the closure of their People's Square Lounge by Top Golf location at the end of this month, marking three years in the Shanghai market.However, the silver lining is that the team will be opening Topgolf Wuhan later this year in the new Long Hu Parklands, surrounded by sports fields and a lush natural landscape. Frederic Anton, Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sLess of a closure and more of a breakup, 18 by Frederic Anton is now just a flash in the Bund pan; the eponymous French chef split from Bund 18 earlier this month after just six months of partnership, along with the rest of his team. Now named L' Atelier 18, exactly what will become of the space, and how far it will stray from Anton's original intention, is still up in the air.After a 16-year run on Jinxian Lu, seafood-focused (and more specifically oyster-focused) Italian outpost Osteria closed in the end of May.The group will still keep the other two locations – Osteria Garden on Baoqing Lu and Osteria+ in Pudong – open. New Wave by Da Vittorio, Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sNew Wave by Da Vittorio in the UCCA Edge Museum has also closed its doors to the public, transitioning to an event space for private and corporate banquets.The team has been split up, a few moving to other venues within the same group, like chef Andrea Fiori, who will now work with chef Stefano Bacchelli at Da Vittorio at the Bund Financial Center. Uncle No Name on Nanjing Xi Lu is being converted into a Dairy Queen, and Revolving Door will revolve no more as it shut this month for good.And so the cookie crumbles.
[Cover image via tricycle.org]
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