All aboard!
By Heather Millet
Just two years later, in 1806, the term 'cocktail' was officially coined by New York publication The Balance and Columbian Repository, dispensing society toward the future of beverage crafting.
Now—finally!—in 2025, we find the locomotive and creative libations on a collision course at Looper by Ounce, a curious new bar in the United Valley complex off Changle Lu.
Beachside at Looper Town, the miniature world inside the bar
Playful miniature commemorating recently closed bar, Perfume by Ounce
Behind the bar of Looper by Ounce, the new concept launched by Marley Teng and partner Tina.
While Ounce has graced multiple locations over its eight year history, the duo behind it, Marley Teng and his partner, the mononymous Tina, decided to dissolve all prior iterations and reinvent their vision with this singular—and very large—passion-project.
Art imitating life, imitating art—the tiny Looper Bar inside Looper Town inside Looper by Ounce
The new bar—which seats 100 people amidst the imaginary world of Looper Town—draws its concept from the couple's foundation of owning prior bars, a taste for scotch, and Teng's appreciation of miniatures and trains.
In the beginning, they didn't know where life in the Shanghai bar scene would lead. And they certainly didn't know that they would one day be commissioning a 10-month project for the creation of 'Looper Town,' the tiny original world central to this fourth-floor location.
Bar interior with factory scene
Looper Town is comprised of all pieces imported directly from Austria and Germany, linking us around the world, as the bar name might suggest, through history and childhood to modernity and our adult lives.
Co-founder Marley Teng's personal stamp collection, with items dating as far back as 1882
Scotch & steam
Somehow the space encapsulates both a museum feel—with Teng's own train-themed stamps collection framed around the walls—and the classy liveliness of a speakeasy whisky bar.
Looper by Ounce speakeasy vibes
Looper Town is more than a pocket-sized model city—within it lives 500 minute residents, who are sunbathing at the beach near a distillery...
... watching films...
... celebrating weddings...
... engaging in industry...
... and emergency rescue...
... riding cable cars...
... tending livestock...
... waiting patiently at the railroad crossing...
... getting it on and cooking up meth...
There is lots to discover while examining the town, such as film and TV scenes, or the only two named individuals from the population—an old man in a rocking chair and a young man relieving himself in a patch of grass.
Watering the weeds
Out of the 100-passenger seating capacity of the bar, there are plenty of seats around the capsule universe of Looper Town, giving perfect vantage to examine over a glass of something equally creative.
The whisky selection at Looper by Ounce includes over 500 selections of Scotch, bourbon and Japanese labels
There are as many unique bottles of whisky as there are Looper Town residents, offering primarily Scotch—but also a selection of Bourbons and Japanese options, many of which also come from Teng's personal collection, available by the glass (and at a special price to members).
Many from co-founder Teng's private collection, including some purchased by auction
Bottles from the Members' Only section, available by the glass
Members seating area, overlooking the tree-lined cross-roads of Shaanxi Nan Lu an Changle Lu
In keeping with the idea of looping through the past, Looper has preserved a number of Ounce legacy cocktails on the menu, but has also added eight new train-themed Looper signatures, as well as continuing their tradition of barrel-aged cocktails.
Rio Grande (RMB118): Chinese Brandy, Xinjiang Ice Wine, Amaro, Quinine, White Cocoa
Named for one of the most famous railroads in US history, whose narrow-gauge lines pierced the rugged Rocky Mountains, the Rio Grande (RMB118) cocktail is a tasty twist on the classic Brooklyn cocktail, using Chinese wine ingredients to link West and East.
La Dolce Vita (RMB118): Gin, Bitter Bianco, Vermouth, Coffee, Earl Grey Tea, Ginger
La Dolce Vita (RMB118) is a Negroni twist, by way of its strength, with the herbal aromas replaced by Earl Grey and Coffee.
Viva La Vida (RMB118): Ardbeg 10 yo Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Islay, Aged Yellow Wine, Vermouth, Plum, Osmanthus, Spice
From the barrel comes the Viva La Vida (RMB118), served in an extraordinary nip that's decorated like a bottle of Ardbeg Whisky, letting us engage our inner giant or giantess.
This miniature (see what they did there?) could satisfy both a peat lover and a whisky-novice—it's like smoky salted caramel—and the diminutive bottle serves more than a single pour over ice.
Train Suite (RMB88): Japanese Lager, Tomato, Katsuoboshi (Bonito flakes), Tajin, Nori Garnish
For a lighter (and gamified) cocktail, the Train Suite (RMB88) arrives with a thumb-high can of Kirin Beer.
A Red Eye twist, the cocktail is made with bonito-infused tequila and tomato, therefore strongly umami, and we are invited either to cleanse with the beer, or amplify with a nori tajin garnish.
The idea is to play with our drink.
Black Swan (RMB98): Pisco, Longan, Corn, Ylang Ylang, Chamomile, Tachiti Lemon
As if stepping into a bar with 500 bottles of scotch, a stamp collection, and train set isn't enough like a trip to grandpa's, the Black Swan (RMB98) is a very gentle cocktail, a floral Pisco Sour twist reminiscent of Grandma's lemonade.
Truffle Chocolate – Espresso Martini Twist (RMB128): Vodka, Truffle, Dark Chocolate, Coffee, Nama Chocolate
On the endless search for flavor, one of Teng's conundrums was why a so-called 'chocolate truffle' was both named and shaped for the famed fungus, without any of its flavor.
Through this mystery was born his idea for a chocolate espresso martini with genuine truffle flavor.
The Truffle Chocolate (RMB128) offers exactly this—strong in the aroma of truffle and accompanied by a specialty chocolate.
It's been a mainstay of the Ounce legacy cocktails since 2019.
The cycle of excitement doesn't end with drinks, as Looper by Ounce has also taken their kitchen staff from their prior bistro to craft a full-fledged menu—from appetizers to noodles and rice, classic bar bites like fries and jalapeno poppers, straight on to boozey desserts.
Kaphrao Pork Cheese Fries (RMB78): French Fries, Khaprao, Chili, Cheese
The Kaphrao Pork Cheese Fries (RMB78) are just fantastic—steak-cut fries bedecked in flavorful meat and cheese, served in a classic casserole dish.
Salted Egg Yolk Prawns (RMB68): Black Tiger Shrimp, Salted Egg Yolk, Mayonnaise
The Salted Egg Yolk Prawns (RMB 68) are perfectly cooked, which can be a rarity with bar bites.
Finally, the 'adult desserts' are stunning, in-house ice creams—made with alcohol, of course....
Macallan Whisky Dark Chocolate (RMB 68): Valrhona 85% Dark Chocolate, Anchor Whipping Cream, Macallan 12Yo Whisky
The Macallan Whisky Dark Chocolate (RMB68) is sensationally chocolate, and melts like a liquor fudge, with almond chips for texture and fun.
Passionfruit & Banana Sorbet (RMB48): Passionfruit, Banana, Rum
The Passionfruit & Banana Sorbet (RMB48), meanwhile, is a dairy-free option that still meets the craving for a dessert at the end of a drinking session.
Seasonal Shots served in a train car against the backdrop of a speeding toy train
Now in its eighth year (and aging like a fine Scotch) Ounce has yet again brought us an intriguing and flavor-filled experience—with a bit of history, and a lot of wonder.
New additions are still being made to Looper Town so, as Tina says, along these train tracks we call life in Shanghai "You never know what the next stop will be."
"My mama always said, 'Life is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're gonna get.'"
Sun-Thu 6.30pm-2am, Fri & Sat 6.30pm-3am
Looper 401, 4/F United Valley, 462 Changle Lu, Huangpu District, Shanghai 上海市黄浦区长乐路462号集社联合谷4楼401室
[All photos by Maria Menand / That's]
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