NYT bestselling author Paul French\x26#39;s historical guide
By Paul French
This means Macao—or at least parts of Macao—can get a bit crowded. Those flashy new casinos on reclaimed land pull in the punters, as do the adjacent swanky hotels with mammoth-sized all-day buffets.
But there are ways to see the older Macao and to peruse it in a more leisurely, less hectic way that largely avoids the crowds while emphasizing the heritage of Portuguese Macao. And you don't need to break the bank.
Paul French Exploring the history of the Hotel Central
New York Times bestselling author Paul French has spent a good deal of time in the last few years wandering Macao's ruas, travessas and largos, avoiding the casinos, enjoying traditional Macanese cuisine, and trying to channel the place from the 1800s to the late 1950s for his new essay collection, Destination Macao, published by Blacksmith Books.
His essays range from the long-forgotten time Britain invaded Macao in 1808 (anticipating that, on Napoleon's orders, the French might try and occupy the peninsula before them) to the expat hangouts of the 1830s before the development of Hong Kong saw an exodus from Macao to the Fragrant Harbour.
Then there is the time Japan tried to buy the colony from Lisbon, Portugal's crazy wartime neutrality juggling act, and how the colony nearly became an independent republic.
Macao 1950s tourism map
Along the way, French indulges in the Macao of the mind, a place that for so long has so tempted the foreign imagination and lured in everyone from filmmaker Josef von Sternberg, a panoply of Portuguese literary giants, and finally James Bond creator Ian Fleming, all looking for inspiration.
So let's look at how you might do a more relaxed, more intellectual break to Macao than simply staying up all night playing the slots.
Hotels
Hotel Central
For the heritage fan and the history buff, there's only really one place to stay right now in Macao—the Hotel Central, located at 270 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro.
Newly refurbished in 1930s style, right smack bang on Senado Square in the heart of the Old Town and close to the restaurants of the pedestrianized Rua de Felicidade and the small streets roundabout Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, the Central was the place to be from its opening in 1928 until it became rather run down and forgotten in the 1980s.
Senado Square with Hotel Central in the background
Built by local gambling and 'entertainment' tycoon Foo Tak Yam, for years it was the tallest building in Macao. Casinos were on the fifth and sixth floors.
While recommending the establishment in 1959, Ian Fleming did admit that the Central Hotel, a 'House of Pleasures' for sure, was also "the least recommendable place on earth," at least in polite company.
Today the rooms are refurbished beautifully, there are mementos of the old days throughout and—as an added bonus—the 360° open rooftop gives one of the best views of Macao.
Grande Hotel
Also handy for the Old Town is the Grande Hotel, located at 612 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro. The starkly modernist 124-room establishment opened in 1941 and was immediately a hit, becoming a destination for elite Chinese visitors, celebrities, and dignitaries.
Back in its heyday, ferries would dock at the nearby Inner Harbour and disgorge visitors who checked into the Grande or Central and then explored Old Macao.
Like the Central, it went through a slump in the 80s and 90s, but is now refurbished and super reasonably priced.
Eats
A Lorcha
For those in search of the old Macanese cuisine—inspired by the fusion of Cantonese and Portuguese, with the spices of Malacca and Goa thrown in—then head to A Lorcha, located at 289 Avenida Almirante Sergio.
Perhaps it's a little less smart than other places, perhaps it lives off its reputation, but if you're in search of Old Macao and the former colony's heritage, then A Lorcha is evocative.
Sautéed Pork and Clams Alentejo-style
Think Sautéed Pork & Clams Alentejo-style, followed by the classic Macanese dessert Serradura—whipped cream and condensed milk topped with crushed biscuit and ice cream covered with hot chocolate.
Bacalhau Dried & Salted Cod
The Portugália, 75 Rua dos Clérigos, is a great stop when exploring Taipa Old Village. Octopus Salads, Bacalhau Dried & Salted Cod, and wonderful Egg Puddings. All, of course, washed down with a selection of Portuguese wines.
Fat Siu Lau then
Ian Fleming recommended Fat Siu Lau in 1959, and it's still going strong at 64 Rua da Felicidade in the old Red Light District—Rua de Felicidade, always known as the 'Street of Happiness,' is now rather sanitised and touristy, but still a delightful street of old shophouses.
Fat Siu Lau now
The restaurant opened in 1903, and Roast Pigeon has always been the specialty, along with sumptuous Lamb Dishes. For those still craving Macanese favorites, there's also African Chicken and Baked Codfish.
A stone's throw from the busy Avenida de Praia Granda, and close to the relaxing shady streets and art galleries of Tap Seac, is Lai Kei Sorvetes, at 12 Avenida do Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida, an ice cream diner that's been in business since 1933.
After all that cod and octopus, a Red Bean Ice Cream Sandwich is just the thing. And for history and heritage fans, the exterior and interior are all original and quite amazing.
Other flavors include Melon, Coconut, and Pineapple, sandwiched between thin wafers and packaged in a cardboard box with a vintage design.
Coffee & Pastries
Banco Delta Asia
People crave their coffee, and my favorite coffee shops are to be found around the quiet and calm of the Largo de Santo Agostinho, close to the peaceful Sir Robert Ho Tung Library and the beautiful Banco Delta Asia building.
Pastéis de Nata
And, of course, you have to take part in the local Pastéis de Nata wars. The local hero, Lord Stow's Bakery (the best being found at 1 Rua do Tassara, Coloane Town Square) was actually started by an Englishman in the 1980s, but remains a Macao institution.
But now there's a challenger—the newly-opened Macao branch of Manteigaria (598 Avenida da Praia Grande), Lisbon's preeminent Pastéis de Nata store.
Let battle commence!
Bookshops
Livraria Portuguesa
Two great bookshops to visit are Livraria Portuguesa at 16 Rua de São Domingos, close to Senado Square, which sells Portuguese and English language books, magazines, souvenirs, and Licor 35 Creme de Pastel de Nata Liqueur—a Bailey's-like custard tart flavored drink that somehow seems so right for Macao.
Licor 35 Creme de Pastel de Nata Liqueur
Pinto Livros e Música, located at 47 Rua Coelho do Amaral near the Camões Gardens (Praca de Luis de Camões), sells Chinese and English language books, a great selection of art books and vinyl old and new.
Finally, a few places to breathe...
Sir Robert Ho Tung Library
Macao can get hectic, hot, and humid. Yet, despite being horrendously urban, there are some lovely spots to sit and chill.
The Sir Robert Ho Tung Library (Largo de Santo Agostinho) has nice gardens to sit in front and rear, as well as the excellent library.
It's close to the Dom Pedro V Theatre, built in 1860 as the first Western-style theater in all of China, and open to stroll around.
Dom Pedro V Theatre
Head over to Barra, the district on the southwest of the peninsula where many formerly industrial buildings are now being renovated and turned to new uses, such as the nineteenth century Barra Slaughterhouse.
Walk from the Old Quarter around Senado, through Largo de Santo Agostinho to Barra via Penha Hill.
Our Lady of Penha Church
Take in the magnificent and breezy views from Our Lady of Penha Church, before taking some time to get some serious house-envy when you see the Skyline Building, an Art Deco style residence built in the 1920s located atop the Hill.
Skyline Building
Back down in the Old Town, drop by the quiet of the Old Protestant Cemetery close to the Casa Gardens and the Jardim De Luis De Camões.
Old Protestant Cemetery
The cemetery was established in 1821 after the British East India Company purchased a plot of land to address a need for Protestants to be buried within the Catholic Portuguese colony of Macao.
Among others, the artist so associated with Macao, George Chinnery, lies buried there. Invariably you'll get the place to yourself.
Tap Seac, an area of small shady streets
Lastly, there's Tap Seac, an area of small shady streets (and one rather imposing square you can ignore).
Tap Seac
Start at the Tap Seac Gallery, 95 Avenida Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida, and head for the stepped streets of small galleries and cafés behind.
Destination Macao
So yes, it is possible to ignore the casinos, the reclaimed land, and the blingy glitz of the new Macao and seek out the older, calmer, Macao of earlier days.
Paul French's Destination Macao is a useful companion taking you from the 1800s Praia Grande to the hotels and casinos of the interwar years, the reinvention of Macao after World War II, and its eventual transformation into the Macao of today.
A city that combines the new and the raucous with the old and the laidback perhaps better than anywhere else in China.
Scan the QR code to get your copy now:
[All images courtesy of Paul French]
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