By Sophie Steiner
Pizzeria S
Shanghai institution Scarpetta expanded further afield to the North Bund area with its sister restaurant, Pizzeria S in 2021.The boutique venue, in the style of Southern Italian island Capri with a hint of Japanese influence, has just launched an incredible lineup of Italian paninis, inspired by the famed All'Antico Vinaio, the beloved shop in Florence that is home to the world's most famous sandwich.Yes, you read that correctly – Saveur magazine named it such, and the daily lines that snake down the block (at each of the four locations in Florence) translates to thousands of sandwiches served every damn day of the year.Its fame has now blossomed to over a dozen destinations globally, with All'Antico Vinaio found from New York to Vegas, from Rome to Venice. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sAnd what makes these coveted sandwiches so droolworthy? It comes down to the basics, beginning with homemade schiacciata bread followed by high quality ingredients and perfect pairings.So why the All'Antico Vinaio history lesson? Well, owner John Liu and chef Lorenzo Merolle have decided to skip the legal hubbub of opening a franchise, and instead are vowing to make a sandwich that – gasp – is better than the original All'Antico Vinaio right here at Shanghai's very own Pizzeria S. (Are you seeing how this long-winded intro is starting to come full circle yet?)Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sAnd did they accomplish all they set out to? Like we'd spoil the surprise this early in the article… read on, young sandwitarians. First, back to the schiacciata – a traditional Tuscan flatbread similar to focaccia, yet thinner, with a slightly crispier crust.Prized for its plush chew, the team at Pizzeria S proofs this high hydration bread for 48 hours so that each moreish morsel is akin to biting into a pock-marked cloud. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sSaid carby cloud forms the base of each of the five current sandwich offerings, starting out with the most classic of classic, La Mortadella (RMB118).Folded ribbons of paper-thin mortadella studded with pistachio are fanned out across mildly milky stracciatella (shreds of mozzarella soaked in heavy cream – the choicest part of the 'Queen of Italian Cheeses') interspersed with pecorino and thick dollops of pistachio pesto replete with toasted pistachio kernels.But the kicker is the liberal brushing of honey, a sweet stickiness that undeniably unites, creating a whole greater than the sum of its parts.The sandwich bridges common permutations of Italian ingredient pairings – mortadella and pistachios, pecorino and honey, and stracciatella and honey – all nestled inside a fluffy bread pocket. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sTwo commonly paired pork products – crackly herb-infused porchetta and spicy n'duja sausage – make a showing in the eponymous La Porchetta (RMB128). Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sThe pork cracklin' side of the porchetta edge, juxtaposed against the puffy schiacciata, translates to a gloriously gluttonous gulp, further amped by zesty arugula, fresh tomato and mozzarella.A final dusting of orange zest lends a bright pop to cut through the unctuous duo of pork. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sCombining the best of both worlds with succulent, crispy chicken parmesan and the convenience that is a sandwich, La Pollo (RMB118) sees breaded and fried chicken Milanese doused in tomato sauce and smothered in stretchy strands of melted mozzarella.The archetypal Caprese trinity of sliced tomato, micro basil and fresh mozzarella makes a showing, with the added bonus of arugula and a lick of mayo. La Carpaccio (RMB128) – Thickly cut beef tenderloin carpaccio, lemon truffle aioli, spinach salad, 36-month aged parmesan, asiago-crusted bread, extra virgin olive oil, lemon zest. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sImage by Sophie Steiner/That'sLiving up to its name, La Godfather (RMB128) is one stacked sando, with meaty stratum of salami, mortadella and seared sausage – enough to put hair on the OG Godfather Marlon Brando's chest.Zippy sundried-tomato, marinated artichoke and pickled pepper offer a necessary punch to cut through the layers of spice and fat while arugula, soft ricotta and spicy shallot vinaigrette round out this hefty behemoth.And this is just the initial sandwich launch; the team plans to add more combinations throughout the season, so stay tuned!Pizzeria S, #101, Building 2, 18 Gongping Lu, by Haiping Lu, 公平路18号2栋101室，近海平路.
Homeslice
Can it really be called a new season in Shanghai if we have not first discussed Homeslice's new pizzas? The answer to that question is a resounding, "No."This summer Homeslice is shaking it up a bit with a total of four seasonal pizzas, releasing one each month, available for two months at a time.What that translates to is a new pizza to look forward to every month of the summer season! Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sFirst up, there's the Beet Street (RMB30/slice, RMB98/12", RMB150/16", RMB230/20"), an 'un-beet-able' pie enticing vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.Instead of the customary red sauce, this pizza sees a thick spread of ruby-hued roasted beetroot purée shmeared with gobs of feta cheese. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sCrunchy jicama, peppery arugula, and lemon zest make for a veritable menage a trois of seasonal tastes, colors, and textures – with the added bonus of getting in a few extra of your daily serving of five.Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sFrom the vegetable patch to the butchery, the Sichuan Sausage (RMB35/slice, RMB108/12", RMB170/16", RMB270/20") is a spicy meat lover pizza's biggest competition in that the thick, homemade sausage medallions are akin in shape to Italian or German sausage, but the prevalent notes of Sichuan peppercorn and baiju make for an overtly aromatic mouthfeel. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sThe higher fat content from the sausage translates to a smarmy slice, with pools of spice-laden oil catching in the crevices and intermingling with huangjiu-laced sausage bechamel, a recipe spurred by the team's love for the majiang mian (sesame paste noodles) flavors, sans the actual sesame paste. Further augmented by sweet pickled jiaotou onion, garlicky leeks, crisp celtuce stem, and thin slivers of sliced chili, the final nip of lingering heat makes it a battle of willpower to only destroy one slice.Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sEvery year, with the slightest hint of sunshine, you'll see buckets of crayfish on every Chinese street corner, luring in herds of hungry patrons.A seasonal specialty, summer in China is simply not complete without at least one crayfish – or xiaolongxia – feast.And beginning in July, Homeslice is making said crayfish feast all the more devourable with the launch of the Thirteen Spices Crayfish (RMB35/slice, RMB108/12", RMB170/16", RMB270/20"), an ode to this crushable crustacean.Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sFried in a lacy tempura-like batter, the 'popcorn crayfish' are anchored to the 'za by a 13 spice tomato sauce, a play on the city's most common xiaolongxia sauce – shi san xiang (十三香) – but less oily and more tart-sweet.Julienned cucumber and chilis are sprinkled on top, along with the requisite cilantro, served with an optional dribble of crawfish sauce, made from yogurt, lemon, cayenne, and a proprietary crawdad spice blend. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sSet to launch in August, the Chicken Fajitas (RMB35/slice, RMB108/12", RMB170/16", RMB270/20") is just that – an actual entire fajita atop a cheesy pie, the masa tortilla swapped for sourdough crust.Think all the building blocks of a killer fajita – pulled chicken tossed in chipotle sauce, mixed peppers and onions, globules of sour cream, gooey cheese, and a generous speckling of cilantro – finished with your choice of hot sauce (for dine-in).Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sAs always, 10% of the highest grossing pizza's monthly revenue is donated to Stepping Stones charity, so you can rest easy knowing your indulgence is benefitting those less fortunate. Scan the QR code below to see listings for Homeslice.
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[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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