Chill Out! Shanghai's Best (& Worst) Ice Cream Sandwiches


By Sophie Steiner


August 2 marks National Ice Cream Sandwich Day, a day that celebrates the 125th birthday of the ice cream sandwich – America's iconic summertime dessert that, throughout the past century, has made a trip around the globe.

This cooling treat can trace its origin back to the sweltering backstreets of New York City, where pushcart salesmen peddled them alongside other celebrated American street eats – like hot dogs and 'churned butter' milkshakes – enabling them to become a longstanding summertime tradition.

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But the USA isn't the only place claiming the ice cream sandwich as their own. Singapore, Ireland, Australia, Israel, Uruguay, and even Iran – among others – have their own take on this cold and creamy treat. 

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From the bánh mì kẹp kem in Vietnam (a street vendor snack with ice cream smooshed between two pieces of white bread) to Iran's bastani-e nooni (a saffron and rosewater flavored ice cream that's dipped in pistachios and served between two wafers), the definition of an ice cream sandwich has greatly expanded over the years.

(Along with our waistlines.)

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When it comes to actual ice cream, gelato and soft serve, Shanghai's frozen treat game is real strong. 

From one-off heavy hitters – like Dal Cuore, Luneurs, and Gracie's – to internationally recognized chains like – Dairy Queen, Zakuzaku, Venchi and even Dippin' Dots – there is no shortage of options for keeping cool in the summer. 

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But what about upping the ante by placing said ice cream between another treacly confection for an all-round frozen bite of gluttony?

We scoured Shanghai's ice cream sandwich scene to bring you pretty much all the available options.

The Anteroom – Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB48)

Wine bar-meets-bistro, The Anteroom has been a mainstay on Changle Lu for nearly nine years, with owner and wine importer Alvin Zhang leading the charge, pulling many a dish inspiration from customer feedback. 

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A prime example is the venue's Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB48/4 pieces), an ode to Shanghai's yesteryear that has remained on the menu for more than four years.

Featuring both local milk-flavored ice cream brand and childhood favorite Guang Ming (光明) – a snowy white "brick" sliced into cubes – sandwiched by two slightly salty and scallion-scented Wan Nian Qing (万年青) butter biscuits – another nostalgia-inducing local cookie style – the dessert is further augmented by a dribble of salted caramel and a dusting of tart, freeze-dried strawberries.

The juxtaposing crumble of the shortbread cookie against the velvety give of the ice cream makes for a brilliantly balanced bite.

The Anteroom, 1222 Changle Lu, by Wulumuqi Zhong Lu, 长乐路1222号, 近乌鲁木齐中路.

Bun Cha Cha Grill – Pandan Coconut Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB58)

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Regardless of what meats or mains you order at Vietnamese venue Bun Cha Cha Grill, skipping the Pandan Coconut Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB58) would be a major disservice to your future self and an insult to ice cream sandwiches of the world.

A banh mi baguette is sliced open and toasted before being slathered with pandan cream and stuffed with a heaping scoop of coconut ice cream, all brought together with a condensed milk drizzle.

The toasted crunch of the bread tempered by the creamy ooze of melting ice cream makes for a sinfully moreish morsel. 

Pro Tip: One order minimum per person; you won't want to share. 

Bun Cha Cha Grill, 692 Yongjia Lu, by Anting Lu 永嘉路692号, 近安亭路.

Cantina Agave – Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB50)

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Like a frothy mug of horchata meets a bowl of Cinnamon Toast Crunch – emphasis on the crunch – Cantina Agave's Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB50) is what Mexican dessert dreams are made of. 

Three bountiful scoops of vanilla ice cream are sandwiched between crispy churro pinwheels, sprinkled with enough cinnamon and sugar to turn a classroom full of seven-year-olds into a Full Moon Party-esque rave.

As your mouth moves towards the center, the ice cream squeezes between the churros' ridges, filling every nook and cranny, creating mini pools of sugary goo. 

While the churro "cookies" are crunchier than expected, we do tip our hats to the Cantina Agave team for creating the most structurally sound ice cream sandwich on this list.

We snapped photos of it in raging Shanghai summer heat, and even while taking our sweet time savoring every last cinnamon-y crumb, and it stayed entirely intact with ease.

A testament to the churros' sugar-coated sturdiness. 

Cantina Agave, 291 Fumin Lu, by Changle Lu 富民路291号, 近长乐路.

Family Mart – Dongbei Daban Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB6)

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Dongbei Daban is one of China's most widely distributed ice cream bar brands, easily recognizable for their retro packaging that can be spotted in every Family Mart freezer.

The original Dongbei Daban ice cream bar is just a thick rectangular slab of milk-flavored ice cream. Simple, yet delicious, and sold for around RMB4. 

For an extra couple kuai, they throw on two graham-flavored cookies that soften like shortbread and taste exactly how you would expect a store bought ice cream sandwich to taste – a delectable walk further down memory lane with every saccharine mouthful.

High in the bang-for-your-buck category, we give the Dongbei Daban Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB6) two enthusiastic thumbs up.

Family Mart, Everywhere.

Fivemate – Crispy Mate Ice Puff (RMB18)

Brazilian teahouse Fivemate opened last year on the ever-popular Maoming Lu, a small storefront serving a wide variety of tea-based beverages and snacks, all focusing on chimarrão (a Brazilian type of yerba mate – pronounced maw-teh – that is grassier and smoother than the commonplace Argentinian alternative). 

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The majority of the menu is mate drinks – think mate latte, mate with coconut water, or mate with lemon – but this summer sees the launch of yerba mate ice cream, now available in sandwich form as the Crispy Mate Ice Puff (RMB18), an ice cream-filled hamburger bun of sorts. 

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First the bun center is hollowed out and filled with a rotund scoop of the demurely sweet yerba mate ice cream.

After the top bun is placed over the scoop, it's smooshed together in a panini-like press, simultaneously toasting and sealing the bread edges. 

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The corrugated pattern results in an outer crackle, while the inside of the bread remains pillowy, soaking up the ice cream as it melts for a mouthfeel similar to bread pudding. 

Pleasantly portable, this ice cream pocket makes for the ideal on-the-go treat, rivaling the popsicle for its convenience. 

Fivemate, #6 Lane 141 Maoming Bei Lu, by Weihai Lu, 茂名北路141弄6号, 近威海路.

FOTY – Milk Ice Cream & Kouign-Amann (RMB48)

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Standing for "From Oven to You," FOTY is a bakery backed by Luneurs dishing out one thing and one thing only – Kouign-Amann (RMB28), the croissant's buttery cousin, in all manner of varieties. 

The summer special involves a generous scoop of milk ice cream atop aforementioned kouign-amann, so that the former gradually melts in the latter, silky smooth and cold juxtaposed against a delicately flaky, warm crust. 

The kouign-amann itself is notably brittle, with the sugar and butter concoction hardening quickly into a glass-like glaze. A final spritz of sugar water in the last 15 seconds of baking ensures the crackliest veneer.

Like an open-faced sandwich when first presented, we suggest skipping the provided knife and fork altogether (who cuts ice cream anyway?) and folding the pastry like a taco shell, ensuring the utmost temperature and textural contrast in each binge-worthy bite. 

FOTY, #A103, 1107 Yuyuan Lu, by Fenggang Lu, 愚园路1107号A103, 近凤冈路.

Gelato Dal Cuore – Brioche con Gelato (RMB48)

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Gelato Dal Cuore's gelato flavors are a labor of love, with Italy-trained Gelato Chef Gerard Low focusing on sourcing the highest quality ingredients that result in the ideal balance of flavor and texture.

Supported by their die-hard fan base, the six shops around town plus delivery cover a radius that encompasses nearly the entire city, keeping Shanghai's sugar addicts covered with cooling desserts all summer long. 

Aside from the lineup of 14 rotating flavors – like Tahitian Vanilla, Mascarpone & Figs, Lychee Rose, Coconut Pandan, and Black Sesame (pictured above) – that can be served in a cone or cup, our favorite way to enjoy this creamy treat is as the Italians prefer it: nestled inside a toasted brioche bun as the Brioche con Gelato (RMB48), a plush bready base encircling two behemoth scoops of the flavor of your choosing (or, hell, with so many fun flavors, mix and match!)

Gelato Dal Cuore, 600 North Shaanxi Bei Lu, by Xinzha Lu,  陕西北路600号, 近新闸路.

GoodFellas –Tartufo Bianco (RMB88) 

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Clocking in as the most expensive ice cream sandwich; on our list, the Tartufo Bianco (RMB88) barely sneaks its way into the ice cream sandwich category.

For the GoodFellas' take on a tartufo, vanilla ice cream is mixed with macadamia nut slivers and coated in a hard shell of white satin chocolate and almond 'cookies' and placed atop a glistening serving of raspberry purée and vanilla cream. 

Is it tasty?

Most definitely. 

Does it qualify as an ice cream sandwich?

Debatable, but we're willing to push the definition far enough to include this macadamia-filled mouthful on our list. 

GoodFellas, 7 Yan'an Dong Lu, by Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, 延安东路7号, 近中山东一路.

Highline – Sea Salt Chocolate Chip & Vanilla Ice Cream (RMB58)

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Highline offers the utmost elevated version of this beloved snack – the Sea Salt and Chocolate Chip with Vanilla Ice Cream (RMB58) – a "deconstructed ice cream sandwich" if you will, which is just a fancy way of saying, "make it yourself, b*tch."

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The vanilla ice cream with oat crumble is nothing to write home about. That said, after trying those warm, gooey sea salt double dark chocolate chunk cookies, we would do just about anything for them (even if it means assembling them into a haphazard melty mess ourselves). 

The dessert comes with four cookies; we crushed two before remembering "oh yeah, we should probably take a photo – the reason we're here."

We guarantee you will leave Highline equal parts sticky and satisfied. 

Highline, 6/F, 282 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu, 淮海中路282号6楼, 近黄陂南路.

The Kitchen Table, W Shanghai – The Bund – Candy Profiterole Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB98)

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A trio of premium Italian gelato-stuffed profiteroles are served atop a glass candy tray at W Shanghai – The Bund's The Kitchen Table, available on the newly launched summer menu as the Candy Profiterole Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB98).

Like a dismantled slab of Neapolitan ice cream, the correspondingly flavored home-baked profiteroles encase Valrhona 58% dark chocolate mint gelato, strawberry gelato and tart lemon gelato, respectively. 

Our only gripe is the unavoidable ice cream avalanche as the profiterole's flimsy, puffed exterior is no match for the dense gelato – making them wholly unshareable.

So, while there are three to choose from, you really have to pick your poison.

(Our suggestion is death by chocolate. Forever and always.)

The Kitchen Table, 66 Lvshun Lu, 旅顺路66号.

Lawson – Oreo Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB12.6)

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Childhood sentimentality in a plastic wrapper is the best way to sum up Lawson's Oreo Ice Cream Sandwich (RMB12.60) – cookies and cream ice cream cushioned between two crumbly cocoa circles that may or may not be knock-off labeled Oreos.

Whatever, it's China; we're used to it.

Is the ice cream on the icy side compared to others on our list? Yes. 

Is the Oreo a bit too squishy, resulting in no textural contrast? Yes. 

Would we repeat purchase it? Again and again, without question.

Lawson, Everywhere.

RAC II – Ice Cream Mini Buns (RMB65/2 pieces)

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Whisk away to the Mediterranean with RAC II's take on brioche con gelato, a Sicilian breakfast that we can totally get on board with.

For the Ice Cream Mini Buns (RMB65/2 pieces), choose between seasonal flavors like strawberry, salted caramel, rhum raisin, vanilla or yogurt and receive two of the richest, creamiest homemade scoops of ice cream found around town placed atop a plush, toasted brioche pocket.

The crisp inner edge lends a necessary contrast, bringing to mind the naughtiest breakfast toast with cold (ice cream) 'butter' ever imagined. 

RAC II, 55 Shaanxi Nan Lu, by Huaihai Zhong Lu, 陕西南路55号, 近淮海中路.

Strictly Cookies – Ice Cream Sandwiches (RMB40)

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Whether you've lived in Shanghai for one year or 10, Strictly Cookies is the immediate choice that comes to mind for the ideal cookie, and for good reason; owner Lexie Comstock started the company as a passion project, and it has evolved over time into so much more than that.

After the COVID madness, the brand was taken over by Spread The Bagel x CinnaSwirl, continuing to bring Shanghai's favorite cookie to the dessert-loving masses. 

The Ice Cream Sandwiches (RMB40-45) come in rotating flavor combos, (currently it's Tiramisu and Raspberry, but that's set to change in the coming week), plus classics like Vanilla Chocolate Chip Ice Cream Sandwich (vanilla ice cream frozen between two decadent chocolate chip cookies) and Mint Chocolate Chip. 

Although the ratio of cookie to cream skews more towards cookie (rightfully so when you make the best cookies in Shanghai), out of all of the ice cream sandwiches we tried, this is the one calling our name for a repeat purchase.

As well as the Strictly Cookies storefront location, every flavor is available for delivery through the Strictly Cookies WeChat store.

Strictly Cookies, #103, Lane 1166 Yan'an Xi Lu, by Panyu Lu, 延安西路1166弄103室, 近番禺路.

Yangmei Shichang 杨梅市场 – Coriander Ice Cream Roll (RMB22)

Yangmei Shichang 杨梅市场 is a Taiwainese bistro on Xiangyang Nan Lu offering fusion Taiwanese sharing plates for both lunch and dinner.

Many of the offerings include Taiwanese street food, like the Coriander Ice Cream Roll (RMB22), a Taipei night market staple.

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More of a wrap than a sandwich per se, we are making the executive decision to include this on our list for its handheld accessibility.

Three scoops of neutral milk-flavored ice cream are placed in the center of a circular flour crepe. A thick shmear of sweetened yam paste (芋泥) – regularly used for desserts in Chaozhou cuisine – lends an additional layer of creaminess, while a sprinkling of crushed peanut brittle adds a salty crunch.

Finally, the requisite fistful of cilantro bumps up the aroma, all folded and rolled into a hands-friendly dessert burrito-meets-spring roll. 

Yangmei Shichang 杨梅市场, 284 Xiangyang Nan Lu, by Yongkang Lu, 襄阳南路284号, 近永康路.

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[Cover image courtesy of Strictly Cookies]

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