Late Night Döner Kebabs See the Light of Day at Kebaba

By Sophie Steiner

The Place 

Bringing Europe's favorite late-night street eats to Shanghai, Kebaba opened on Jinxian Lu earlier this year with a streamlined menu of build-your-own chicken döner kebab and Berliner kebab offerings.

Ideal for a moreishly messy lunch, snack, or late night eats, hungry patrons can choose their bread, fillings, sauce, and toppings – all for dine-in or delivery. 

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Hopping on the trend that has hit everywhere from Berlin to Copenhagen, from Paris to Granada, Shanghai is also no stranger to kebabs. 

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We've already got the likes of Brother's Kebab, Kebabs on the Grille, Eli Falafel, Efes, Turkuaz Doner, and more, so how does Kebaba stand out?

The Food 

First, it's the meat.

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The brainchild of Frenchman Léon – a self-declared 'kebab addict' – the kebab's meticulous preparation and construction reveal his engineering background.

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For instance, he uses a smaller spit, reassembled multiple times daily with overnight-marinated and never frozen 100% chicken thigh meat to ensure guests are always receiving the juiciest cuts that haven't been spinning (and thus drying out) for hours.

It is a quality difference that is noted within the first succulent bite.

The marinade and meat-stacking spit technique was influenced by a famed (but closely-guarded secret) French-Turkish chef and 25-year kebab shop owner, who spent weeks training the team on the most curated kebab recipe. 

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Next, the tight menu (consisting of just two döner kebab options) makes for ease of ordering. There's...

The Classic

RMB33/cutie, RMB43/big

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The straightforward French street corner kebab with shaved chicken thigh, salad, tomato, red onions, and your choice of sauce (read on for details).

The Berliner

RMB 43/cutie, RMB53/big

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The trendy German take on kebabs as of late, that 'elevates' the classic Turkish kebab from its late-night drunk food status.

This is the same as the classic with the added bonus of grilled mixed veggies, red cabbage slaw, crumbled feta, and cilantro.

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Additional toppings can be added to either kebab style (feta, cheddar, or jalapeños) for RMB6 a pop. 

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While both deliver on the abundant meat quantity front, the former is more of the OG kebab wrap you devour with bleary eyes and shaking hands at 4am, when sustenance is necessary post-club dance (and drink) marathon.

The latter is an Instagrammable full meal you could crush without shame in front of your boss, parents, or significant other. 

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Guests can also choose their own carb – a twice-grilled, pleasantly stretchy whole wheat wrap or a custom French bakery-designed Turkish-style toasted bread that boasts that ideal balance of crispy crust and plush center.

Just as expensive of an ingredient as the meat, the puffy pocket is equally important as the diner's first impression of the sandwich.

There's also an option to go sans carb with a Kebab Box (RMB29), thus missing out on all the fun that is that pillowy bread bun... all in the name of a tight waistline.

Meh, overrated.

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Equally obligatory in the world of kebab consumption, the Champion's French Fries (RMB19/medium, RMB33/XL) are no afterthought.

Twice-fried and dusted in a secret spice blend, their shattering crisp remains intact throughout a 20-minute meal, even in the middle of the wettest of plum rain season.

No easy feat.

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The next decision belongs to the sauces, of which all are made in-house (aside from ketchup and mayo, of course).

We can't recommend enough the requisite White Sauce – a thinner tzatziki of sorts, made with yogurt and dill – and the Spicy Sauce – a tomato based tart and fiery sticky glaze that deserves to be downed by the spoonful.

The Secret Sauce is at once creamy and piquant, another equally viable contender. 

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Upgrade your kebab to include fries and a soft drink for RMB16, or fries and a premium drink (Perrier, Lime Sparkling Mojito, Paulaner Beer, or Goose Island 312) for RMB29. 

The Vibe 

The seafoam teal-hued shop is tiny (more of non-mobile food stall) yet with inviting Italian-designed decór – with the spinning meat spit as the focal point, in all it's fat-dripping, charred glory.

Currently, there's outdoor seating/standing space for 4-6 people, but as the weather warms (and we finally get to see some sunshine again), additional small chairs and tables will be added streetside, lending a laid-back terrace mood to historic, tree-lined Jinxian Lu.

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As night falls, the party vibes get turnt up, with shots poured freely into the witching hour.

It's a kebab stand, after all – how much ambiance are you really expecting as you crush 500 calories in under five minutes flat? 

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Price: RMB33-79
Who's Going: The Europeans (all of them), the Jinxian Lu (coffee to cocktail) drinking crowd, the Eleme addicts
Good For: Fast lunches, delivery options, late night calorie consumption

Kebaba, 144 Jinxian Lu, by Maoming Lu, 进贤路144号, 近茂名路.

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[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]

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