One such story is happening next door to Tianzifang, at The O Bar.
Ata Kudvs, partner and lead mixologist at the O Bar. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
The O Bar is a small operation, born from the ashes of a (not to be mentioned) bar that has now closed its doors here in Shanghai.
When said location shut, two customers (who wish to remain anonymous) felt they could not carry on drinking without their favorite mixologists, Ata Kudvs, and his colleague, Morgan Ye.
Ata originates from a small town in Xinjiang, giving him a unique perspective—which he couples with 10 years of bar experience to explore flavors from across the nation.
Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
Of the 12 cocktails represented on their current menu, Ata has crafted eight and Morgan is responsible for four.
Menu at The O Bar, representing flavors from around China. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
The 'O' in the name harkens to the idea of 'origins,' or the shadow of the orb of the moon, likened to moonshine—and, of course, to the big 'O' we all seem to endlessly seek.
Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
The bar itself has a glass front, so it's possible to see the bar counter right from the street.
However, in contrast to the clear vision of the menu, the décor could almost disguise the enterprise as a frame shop due to random prints of famous art and pop culture splashed across the walls.
The O Bar Interior. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
The most popular cocktail during the soft-opening weeks of The O Bar has been Harbin-inspired The Frozen Pear (RMB128) which arrives with an entire frozen pear immersed in its liquid—quite literally...
The Frozen Pear (RMB128): Mixed Gin, Limoncello, Pear Brandy, Cucumber, Bitters, Sichuan Pepper, Peeled Pear. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
As the mixture of gin, limoncello, pear-infused brandy, and other flavors is drunk, the pear softens into a sorbet-like texture and—near the end—can be eaten.
Though the cocktail contains both cucumber and Sichuan pepper, neither is overbearing.
Liquid Dough Twist (RMB98): Dough Twist, Almond, Hazelnut, Dark Rum, Honeycomb Toffee, Sesame, Butter. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
The Liquid Dough Twist (RMB98) was inspired by the divisive crunchy snacks hailing from Tianjin—which many prefer not to munch on, yet work surprisingly well as a cocktail ingredient.
Tianjin Dough Twists. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
Ata practically atomized the snacks to infuse dark rum before clarification, and has painstakingly added an in-house made sweet honeycomb toffee as garnish.
Honeycomb Toffee, made in-house at The O Bar. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
The cocktail runs strong toward sesame, with an aroma like an oil rich field, totally enlivened by that sweet honeycomb toffee topping.
Guava (RMB108): Tequila, Preserved Plum, Guava, Basil, Chili. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
For something more predictably sweet, the Guava (RMB108) is a nod to the south—crafted by Morgan, who drew inspiration from the sweet fruits of Guangzhou after spending several years there. The salty plum notes come through, and the color is favorably bright.
Chandan (RMB128): Mixed Gin, brandy, Red Vermouth, Bitters, Peychaud's Bitters, Sandalwood, Onion, Lemongrass. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
Looking to Yunnan for inspiration, the Chandan (RMB128) is named after the Hindi word for sandalwood, which holds deep cultural, religious, and medicinal significance across Asia.
One of Ata's starring cocktails, it showcases his range of skills and ingredient insight, and involves a complex, lengthy process: the sandalwood is first soaked in baijiu for weeks to mellow its bitterness, then reused to infuse two varieties of gin.
A light onion-lemongrass syrup has also been created for the cocktail, and the drink changes flavor as the ice melts during consumption.
Topped with a pickle (a simple ode to hangover cures) the Chandan is reminiscent of a Negroni, while maintaining a very clear character of its own.
Ili Milk Granule (RMB108): Coffee Vodka, Red Vermouth, Campari, Strawberry, Lemon, Milk Granule. Photo courtesy of The O Bar
Paying homage to his roots, Ata reimagines Xinjiang's traditional Ili Milk Candies by fat-washing brandy with them for the Ili Milk Granule (RMB108).
This cocktail is considered a Side Car twist, and features a double dose of absinthe—including a chocolate variant.
The beverage smells like sherbet, but tastes classic, and in the run of drinks on the menu is one to watch out for in terms of alcohol content.
Cheese toppings are popular in many a cocktail bar, and here Ata takes this a fun route—using grated Ili Milk Candy as garnish.
Beijing Hawthorn (RMB98): Classic Baijiu (listed as white wine), Strawberry Liqueur, Whisky, Tonka Bean, Jasmine Tea, Pineapple, Lime. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
To represent China, one must indulge in some truly Chinese baijiu, such as the Beijing Hawthorn (RMB98) which features 'The People's Baijiu' along with a mixture of ingredients to mimic northern hawthorn fruit.
Highland Barley (RMB128): Highland Barley Wine (Baijiu), Scotch (Talisker), Classic Cherry, Yellow Chartreuse, Saffron Flavor, Sea Salt, Cardamom, Black Tea, Lemon, Chili Strands. Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
The Highland Barley (RMB128), meanwhile, is a liquid adventure across the historic Tibetan plateau, blending a unique Barley Wine Baijiu with Scotch, yellow Chartreuse, cardamom and saffron.
It's genuinely intriguing, and runs toward the Chinese palate like a baijiu spice route.
Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
The O Bar is a flavor journey across China, all from the comfort of a bar stool—perfect for a trip to Tianzifang, a typical Shanghai neighborhood.
The current menu will run for three to four months, before Morgan takes the helm to craft the majority of the summer offerings.
Photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's
Daily, 6pm-2am
The O Bar 114 Jianguo Xi Lu, Huangpu District 黄浦区建国西路114号
[Cover photo by Jimmy Jordan / That's]
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